With his dedication rooted in the land where he was born and raised, Roberto Olivan tends to his vineyards in the Rioja village of Viñaspre, located in the cooler climate of the Basque Rioja Alavesa.
His vineyards are at a maximum altitude of around 700 meters, nestled in the foothills of the Cantabrian Mountain range, this terrain gives his wines unique personalities that are hard to replicate elsewhere in Rioja. The limestone and sandstone marl soils lend a great balance to the wines, ensuring they retain concentrated flavours yet unmatchable freshness from the diverse range of varieties Roberto cultivates.
Roberto, a fourth-generation winemaker, doesn’t merely live off the land—he’s deeply connected to it. He exhibits this connection in how he cares for his vines, embracing low-intervention and organic practices without seeking costly certification. His humility shines through in his work; he never shies away from getting his hands dirty. I remember a video call with him where, even as we spoke, he continued to survey his vineyards, demonstrating a continuous commitment to his vines.
Passionate about the diversity of Rioja, Roberto understands that this region is more than just oaked Tempranillo. He cultivates other many of the heritage varietals of Rioja like Garnacha, Malvasia Riojana, Jaen Blanco, and Viura, many of them mixed planted with each other in the same vineyard. His wines are unique blends that beautifully balance tradition and innovation. Some are blended after fermenting the varieties separately like his Tentenublo range, while others are field blends, drawing on the diverse grapes already mix planted in his very old vineyards.
Incorporating a significant proportion of white grapes into his red wines, Roberto adds layers of complexity and freshness. This allows his wines to age gracefully, further enhancing their depth. But his creations aren’t your typical Riojas; they encapsulate the traditional essence of Rioja but aren’t overshadowed by oak or oxygen. Roberto’s wines are evolving year after year, he adapts his methods to let the terroir shine through, ensuring that each bottle encapsulates the spirit of its vintage and of its place.
The Tentenublo range offers a glimpse into the complexity of Rioja, offering a traditional white that is complex and just delicious, while the Red offers a fruit driven but with a solid freshness that can be considered easily a textbook Rioja that makes the typical Tempranillo shine. His single vineyards are out of this world, coming from very old dry farmed vineyards, the work on these vines is extreme and he makes very limited amounts of these wines, not many bottles at the moment so be sure to get one!
Roberto’s wines are an exhilarating blend of youth and energy, ready to be savoured now, yet promising a future of enhanced depth and complexity for those patient enough to cellar them. Dive into the world of Roberto Olivan’s wines and let yourself be transported to the heart of Rioja through the narrative of one of its best ambassadors!